Calder for Body and Soul

It was a night of dazzling jewels, with nary a precious stone in sight. Salon 94 is exhibiting 40 pieces of Alexander Calder’s crimped, coiled, hammered, and highly coveted creations of body adornment in “Show and Tell: Calder Jewelry and Mobiles.”

While the sculptor’s work is famously kinetic, the opening celebration had these masterpieces of craftsmanship and engineering bouncing around the room. It took quite a few dedicated pairs of watchful eyes to keep track, as pieces made their way around assorted necks, heads, ears, and wrists. When they were not being tried on and photographed, the pieces were displayed on the original faces and heads made by Calder for a 1940 show of the work. Additional “display” sculptures were created for the occasion by a number of contemporary artists invited by the gallery.

The exhibit, which is presented in collaboration with the Calder Foundation, remains on view through December 20th.

Family members, of course, were wearing amazing pieces of their own.

Andre J. looked fabulous next to one of the unwearable mobiles.

Dangling earrings taken to a a new level. You cannot truly understand a Calder mobile until you wear one. What a total thrill!

Arm Partying

Suzy Solidor, 1932

Jacqueline Goddard, 1932

Man Ray knew a good arm party when he saw one. He famously photographed Nancy Cunard, heiress turned political activist, wearing her armloads of African bangles  (below). It also seems that Ray had a thing for the Chanel bracelets, above. He photographed both Suzy Solidor, and Jacqueline Goddard wearing the same ones.

Nancy Cunard, 1926

Madonna was arm partying back in the 80s (link) …

Indian women have been at it for

thousands of years.

Shy Bride

Nautch Girl

A Damsel Bedecked in Jewelry

In South Africa, arm partying is not

just for women …

Guys arm party too (as I hear they are 

starting to do in the US, as well).

These young men of the Ndebele tribe 

engage in serious partying

on their initiation day.

While the current incarnation of the timeless trend, was popularized last summer by the blogging Man Repeller, Leandra Medine (who also coined the phrase), the party apparently continues to be going strong.

Megan, of New York Diaries instructs:

Put as many bracelets on your wrist as you desire…throw in a watch (or two)…the more the merrier! And don’t worry about matching…that’s the fun part!

And then there was this item on WSJ.com:

Q: I notice that lots of women who are into fashion have these stacks of bracelets, sometimes with watches. They go way up their arms sometimes. This is a new trend that I want to start trying. How can I get the right mix of bracelets, and can I wear them on both arms at the same ... (To continue reading, subscribe.)

Now did someone actually write to the WSJ asking for fashion advice--would someone really do that? Or did the Journal invent this question--would they really do that? I’m still trying to figure out which of these alternatives is more disturbing.

Sorry to be such a party pooper …

Man Ray photos via auction sites.

Black and white Ndebele photos by Constance Stuart Larrabee photos via Smithsonian .

A Gem of a Map

I’m definitely a fan of turquoise jewelry, but I don’t usually pore over books on the subject. So I’m pretty sure it was the under-line, “The Gem of the Centuries” that got me to pick up this vintage title from 1975. What got me to actually buy the book and take it home, though, was the map inside, Turquoise Mines of the Southwest.

Specimens of various turquoise stones are placed on a painted map highlighting Nevada, Arizona, New Mexico and Colorado. You hardly need a caption to know that each stone’s pointer leads to its mine location. According to the caption, these are most of the major production locations, but there are many other mines and kinds of turquoise not represented. Page numbers link each specimen to jewelry pictured in the book using that variety of turquoise.

What I like about this map is that it doesn’t try to do too much. It shows only the relevant states and doesn’t feel compelled to label any geography. The mines are discussed throughout the book along with details of the different varieties of the stone. The restraint of maintaining a limited palette on the map is also key to its success.




Curious about what else the map’s illustrator, Gene Boyce Guest produced, I poked around a bit and found only a few pictures attributed to him her. Here are two pieces.



This postcard of Santa Fe's Palace
of the Governors, is from an
original painting by Guest.
1968 oil painting of a Santa Fe hillside.

Bauble Alert: Van Cleef Show Closes July 4th

Egyptian Odalisque evening bag, 1927.
Even if magnificent jewelry isn’t your thing, there’s much jaw-dropping beauty and exquisite craftsmanship to behold at the Cooper Hewitt’s Van Cleef & Arpels show. “Set in Style: The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels” is on view through July 4th. This is no ordinary bling. The legendary Place Vendôme jeweler, founded in 1906, was responsible for such design innovations as the zip necklace, and the “Mystery Setting,” which made it possible for tessellated gemstones to coat undulating surfaces, free of visible metal prongs. Also on display are original sketches, order books, and some remarkable cigarette cases, minaudières, and handbags.

The exhibition design by the Jouin Manku studio features irregularly blown-glass display orbs. They serve as organic vitrines for a cabinet of dazzling curiosities of the rich and famous, and are yet another reason to head over to the Carnegie mansion for the museum’s last show before the building’s two-year renovation begins.

Wishing you a most sparkly 4th!


Peacock box, c. 1950


Radiator lapel pin/bag clasp, 1930. The “vents” open and close


Mystery-set Peony brooch, 1937.


Lamartine earrings and bracelet of coral, amethyst and diamonds, 1970. This set, which belonged to Elizabeth Taylor, was a gift from Richard Burton, and will be auctioned by Christies this winter.


One of two Manchette Cuff Bracelets, which combined together, become a necklace. Late 1920s.


Micro-mosaic necklace.









Indu Necklace, 1950. Sketch, and the real thing.
Owned by Maharani of Baroda.

Bergdorf's Windows

Bergdorf’s Holiday windows are, so over the top this year that they are a challenge to behold. ‘Labor intensive’ doesn’t even begin to describe this extravaganza of passementarie, quilling, encrustation, and taxidermy, with a dose of steampunk.


During the day, the reflections of Fifth Avenue
upon the glass offer some dreamlike surprises ...


But the general effect is dizzying.


If you visit after dark …


and get up close to explore …


you’ll be transported to a world of fantastical detail.










































Glorious, but exhausting, much like the Christmas season in New York!